Magpiecostumer's Blog

Archive for the tag “clothing”

Photos of the finished wedding garb

So as I posted all of my ‘in progress’ photos yesterday I thought I should share some photos of the final finished articles. All photos are courtesy of Bad Cat Photography used with permission.

lacing up the kirtle

lacing up the kirtle

lacing up the gown

lacing up the gown

My blackworked cuffs

My blackworked cuffs

sewing the placket on (I ran out of time to add hooks & eyes so I had to be sewn in on the day)

sewing the placket on (I ran out of time to add hooks & eyes so I had to be sewn in on the day)

B waiting for me at the church and enjoying his swoosh

B waiting for me at the church and enjoying his swoosh

The back of B's gown showing off the swoosh.

The back of B’s gown showing off the swoosh.

Full length photo of both of us

Full length photo of both of us

The whole silhouette not obscured by my veil

The whole silhouette not obscured by my veil

An action shot in which you can see my sleeves better.

An action shot in which you can see my sleeves better.

from the back with the train tied up to the inside

from the back with the train tied up to the inside

Advertisements

That’s not my garb.

So this post is actually about boy garb as I spent yesterday evening helping my Fiance to fit his wedding doublet.

First up I have photos to illustrate the concept of how the side fastening doublet works (as it may be clearer than my description in the lastpost).

Ignore the fact that it’s on my dummy over the top of a dress¬† this is just an illustration of how it fastens. As you can see the sleeve is sewn into the armhole created by the back and side front peices then the full front piece is brought across to cover it up.¬† Much better for men with broad shoulders than the method I was envisioning of pulling it on over the head and then fasten the side seams (which is how the ladies side lacing kirtle is done.

Doublet side front

doublet open showing side front

Doublet Front

Doublet Closed

The other problem was the size of the sleeves, traced from the Tudor Tailor Henrician mens pattern pack the sleeves ere huge. The first step was to take the sleeve up by about 2 inches so it ends at his wrist, not his knuckles.

We liked the fullness in the top of the sleeve but it was getting in the way below elbow level so the second step was to taper it more below the elbow so that in the end the wrist opening was just big enough to fit his hand through comfortably. The next step is cutting silk.

The sleeve with the excess hidden.

The sleeve with the excess hidden.

The adjusted pattern

The adjusted pattern on top of the original

Kirtle Progress and Contemplating Skirt Supports

So my updates took longer than the few weeks I was expecting I have made some real progress in the construction of my kirtle, the interlining is cut out as is the lining.

But before I cut the brocade out I need to work out the skirt length, and for that I need to work out my skirt supports.

corded petticoat only

With a corded petticoat

farthingale only

With a Farthingale alone.

farthingale and petticoats

With a Farthingale and extra petticoats

I already have another Tudor gown and some underpinnings, however the farthingale will need replacing so I put on my old gown and tried all my underpinnings. I was hoping to get away with skipping a farthingale, but looking at a direct comparison using my old Tudor gown there’s no denying that the farthingale makes it look much better.

 

Doublet pattern

Tudor Tailor Henrician doublet pattern, front and side front.

On a side note I’m also helping my Fiance make his garb for the wedding. He’s up to the doublet stage and I finally had a revelation on how the side fastening doublet goes together. I had initially assumed it was a simple case of front and back pieces with a fastening along the side seam, but then there was a ‘right front’ piece that didn’t make any sense. I finally worked out that it is actually supposed to work like an extreme version of a double breasted jacket. The back is only sewn to the front panel on one side on the other side it is attached to the ‘right front’ and then the front overlaps and is hooked or tied on to the right front.

 

Post Navigation