Magpiecostumer's Blog

That’s not my garb.

So this post is actually about boy garb as I spent yesterday evening helping my Fiance to fit his wedding doublet.

First up I have photos to illustrate the concept of how the side fastening doublet works (as it may be clearer than my description in the lastpost).

Ignore the fact that it’s on my dummy over the top of a dress  this is just an illustration of how it fastens. As you can see the sleeve is sewn into the armhole created by the back and side front peices then the full front piece is brought across to cover it up.  Much better for men with broad shoulders than the method I was envisioning of pulling it on over the head and then fasten the side seams (which is how the ladies side lacing kirtle is done.

Doublet side front

doublet open showing side front

Doublet Front

Doublet Closed

The other problem was the size of the sleeves, traced from the Tudor Tailor Henrician mens pattern pack the sleeves ere huge. The first step was to take the sleeve up by about 2 inches so it ends at his wrist, not his knuckles.

We liked the fullness in the top of the sleeve but it was getting in the way below elbow level so the second step was to taper it more below the elbow so that in the end the wrist opening was just big enough to fit his hand through comfortably. The next step is cutting silk.

The sleeve with the excess hidden.

The sleeve with the excess hidden.

The adjusted pattern

The adjusted pattern on top of the original

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