Magpiecostumer's Blog

Wedding Garb 2; Kirtle bodice continued and contemplating jewelery

So I’ve taken the bodice in so it fits and is properly supportive. Based on a properly fitted bodice
I think the smaller ‘cups’ work better. On the side with a larger ‘cup’ I was getting some wrinkling
as my body tried to push it outwards but the fabric isn’t shaped to allow that. The boning covering
just the inch or so where my bust starts to curve outwards has a surprisingly big effect as there’s no
wrinkling on that side.

So now I need to adjust my pattern, to account for the inch or so I’ve taken off each seam (especially
adjusting the armhole curve) and cut new boning for one side of the bodice.

I’ve also been contemplating how to fasten the sleeves. Tudor foresleeves have an opening along
the outside of the arm which is caught together every few inches with the smock (whether real or
faked) puffing through the gaps. The joins in between the puffs of chemise were often decorated in
some way so I need to decide how I’m doing that.

Option Pros Cons
1. No fastenings – There’s some potraits where you can’t see any sort of fastening (e.g. Lady Guildford). Very easy just sew the piecestogether. I’m not a fan of this option though; it looks like you’ve forgotten something.
2. The Princess Elizabeth Ouches from Pewter Replicas  based on the portrait of Princess Elizabeth c.1545 This is probably the easiest decorative option, just throw money at the problem and it goes away.It fits with the wealth of the fabrics I have chosen. If I’m wearing all the jewels wouldn’t be entirely out of place. If I’m aiming for a minor nobility impression the jewels worn by the King’s daughter may not be the most appropriate choice.At £3.95 each enough to do both sleeves would cost over $100 plus shipping.
3. Tied together with what look like ribbon points. As seen in Holbein’s sketch of an English Woman. A relatively cheap option and a better fit for my persona’s status.The non-matching colour can be got around by making ribbons out of the fabric and bling can be added with aglets on end of the ribbons. Finding ribbon that matches my foresleeves/forepart fabric and the lack of bling.
4. Just decorative aglets that don’t seem to be attached to ribbons – as seen in portraits like The Portrait of an Unknown Lady by Hans Eworth A head pin and a set of several tube shaped beads would make nice customised aglets if I don’t need to actually fit a ribbon inside. This means another thing to make when I’m already in a time crunch.While it seems like it would be cheaper to make it yourself if I buy good quality beads from a local bead shop they are expensive and online shops only sell them in packs of 100 or more.

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